Our machines are disturbingly lively. We ourselves frighteningly inert. – Donna Haraway
“Medirle el agua a los camotes”, which
translates nonsensically in English as “measure well the water for the
sweet potatoes”, is a typical Mexican phrase that people use when one
wants to take a risk or decide wether or not to make an adventurous
move. A metaphor used when a friend comes by and tells you “ I want to
quit everything and study Anthropology in NY”. If you have been struck
by what you just heard, and think its a terrible and crazy idea, but
don’t want to break your friends’s heart, then, the easy way out is to
respond: “well, measure well the water of your sweet potato, my
friend”.
I didn’t measure well the water for my sweet
potato that time, and here I am again, one year later, haunted by the
ghost of the sweet potato, trying to do it for the first time…in the
literal sense.
But where do this phrase come from? Apparently, these delicate tubercles, in order to be perfectly cooked and al dente,
need the exact amount of water and a meticulous boiling procedure. A
wrong step in the measure could ruin its delicious and legendary taste.
Such conscientious and stressful operation could just be possibly done
by the joining of forces. A meshwork of forces united by the sole, but
crucial purpose of filling the tummy, hearts and souls of 21 million
human citizens and the incalculable amount of non human, but not because
of that less honorable, citizens like street dogs, pigeons, mice, rats,
ants, bees and flies (sweet potatoes without flies, is like the earth
without the sky).
I will be detailing, later on, the forces
involved in this arduous task, the little units that comprise and make
possible the softening of the sweet tuber; the spinning of the wheel;
the constant motion of life; the fulfillment of bellies.
But for now, I want to place my attention in
just two of them as a whole: the human and the machine. Machine and
human. The sweet potato cart and his loyal Sancho Panza, the human.
They there go, side by side, in perfect harmony despite their
differences. The lone ramblers, marching valiantly through the streets
of Mexico City, whistling their battle hymn through the asphalt jungle,
fighting against the evil windmills, that in this city take the form of
cars that have captured little by little their space, urbanization and
the bourgeoise that have close their paths in order to build luxurious
buildings or gated communities, thieves that might assault them from
time to time; but with their hopes never waning, never stepping back
against these (and more) evils.
Their will to cook to perfection and take the
to every Mexican, at their doorstep, the exquisite delicacy of the
sweet potatoes (or/and plantains) covered with that typical and
saccharine condensed Mexican milk called “La Lechera”, is fierce.
They, in union, and in contrast of me, are
the masters in the art of measuring the water for the sweet potatos. No
doubt they are like wizards, never saying their secrets, but bringing
joy to everyone that dares to hear their call.
Like those gypsy that wander from town to
town in order to show the village people their most daring magic tricks,
or stunning inventions, like that is the nature of the sweet potato
cart and its human friend, (they are mostly men, but a feminist like me
will never cease to dream that there must exist a female companion
somewhere, no doubt), who the instant they make their call, people come
out of their houses and immediately gather around them in order to show
their alchemy called: the absolutely delicious camotes. Oh how much joy
they bring to the world!
But, every mythical figure has its
counterpart, a rival, something that makes their will decline, and
sometimes bring its total annihilation. Don Quijote’s destroyer was
Sansón, Harry Potter had Voldemort, Chomsky has Zizek, Luhmann and
Habermass, Judith Butler and Martha Nussbaum, the anthropology students
at the NSSR: Latour. For the sweet potato cart and its ally is probably
time. The passage of time.
What am I talking about? This two comrades
are less and less heard and seen in Mexico City. They are an object of
extinction. I do not have the exact details of this slow but constant
disappearance, I can only speculate thanks to the little online
ethnography I did, but probably the reason of this are the monopolies of
the convenience stores (7-11’s and it’s Mexican version: OXXOS), the
junk food sold and produce by this same monopolies (cookies, salted
chips, gross plastic sandwiches, etc). Other of my hypothesis is the
association the sweet potato cart has with a culture of poverty; even
though the sweet potato cart travels through the whole city, and its
definitely part of a collective memory, without distinguishing between
poor and rich, it has been associated with the poorer neighborhoods and,
at a time when the city has been captivated by this new idea and
discourses of “urbanity”, or “refinement”, a “capital of the first
world”, the sweet potato cart is rejected as “food for the poor” because
of its street nature and its relation to the working class barrios (the
paradox is that street tacos are gaining popularity from the higher
classes of society. If I wanted to add theory I could probably use
Bourdieu and his habitus, but its definitely not the aim of this).
And, finally, in relation to my last
hypothesis, this urbanization has taken form in more streets. Not more
street for pedestrians or sweet potato carts, but for more cars, which
makes the city even more chaotic and makes it harder for a food cart to
travel freely, like they probably did before. Gentrification might also
play an important role here.
As I mention, this are only my suppositions, a
more ethnographic work would be worth it in order to unravel the
mystery of the object’s extinction, but for now, I would call this the
consequences of its rarer sight and sound. Actually this was my main
motive for choosing this thing, its destruction, but at the same time
the strong memories people still have about them.
So, thinking about how could I could talk
about these nourishing warriors of the senses of the people in Mexico
City, and help them fight against the evils of extinction, memory was a
good solution. Making a homage about all there is to know about them:
songs, poetry, articles, movies, characters, pictures, films,
interviews, recipes…curiosities.
Bring back the memories people have about
them; collect the; compile them, since the information there is about
them is scarce and disorganized, and do a type of online archive for its
future query and then, maybe, make a theory about the camote truck in
order to do better speculations about their lives, their genealogy, and the importance they
have for city life.
I also wanted to dissect the technology of
this machine and see its anatomy, its units that comprise this whole, this assemblage of happiness and sonic surprise. So in order to analyze
it better, the dissection and anatomy was important. And it was also
kind of revealing to get to know how all the little pieces, elements,
units, however they want to call them, interact with each other making a
sweet potato cart.
The form and its design was the second reason
I chose the object. What is a miniature locomotive doing in the streets
of this city making that strange and disturbing sound? And what has
them got to do with sweet potatoes? Could they sell something else? or
could the sweet potatoes be sold in another way? Who decided it had to
be that weird form? And make that strange sound? A meticulous analysis
of its parts and design was a way to gather some insights about this.
I have to accept that taking its human
sidekick away of the cart has been a difficult task because one without
the other make no sense. They are one and the same. One can not live
with out the other, or they could, but their lives would be different.
Unfortunately, his human translator was always far away from me and the
painstaking questions I had for him (my interview via Skype with him was
ruined because the center of Mexico City—the location were our
encounter would take place—, was fenced in order to protect the Senate
and other important monuments from protesters against the energetic
reforms our stupid president wants to implement (that sadly took place
today). So apparently my beloved sweet potato cart, my Different Things
final project, international politics around petroleum, neoliberalism
and, ironically, the economic future of a nation and its national
identity were united, connected, meshed, entangled… for a glimpse of a
moment.
“Ordinary Affects are the varying
capacities to affect and be affected that give everyday life the quality
of a continual motion of relations, scenes, contigencies, and
emergences. THEY ARE THINGS THAT HAPPEN. They happen in impulses,
sensations, expectations, daydreams, encounters, and habits of relating
, in strategies and their failures, in forms of persuasion, contagion,
in modes of attention, attachment and agency, and in publics and social
worlds of all kinds that catch people up in something that feels like
something”. (Stewart)
The sense of connectedness was never clearer. Latour would be very proud of me.
All this to just only say that, my human
subject will be out of the way, but its ghost will inevitably be
present. Not just in the form of a sweet potato companion, but,
inevitably, in the memories of people, and the different and diverse
ways they make sense of an object, a thing: the sweet potato cart.
To conclude. Time passes, and things change, I
guess we can not fight against that. “To observe the clouds, I would
say, ‘is not to view the furniture of the sky, but to catch a glimpse of
the sky in formation, never the same from one moment to the next”, as
Ingold would say (2010:5). So, with this flux and flow in mind, and
ready with my hammer, nails and wood and in the most Bogostian sense, I
have built a webpage homage/archive/encyclopedia/flatontology/ode of that
funny looking locomotive in constant motion that elevates the spirits
of mortals with their food, that evokes the most the most visceral
reactions in poets, that recreates the most beautiful memories of
childhood, that with his nostalgic whistle frightens to death the
Mexican dogs, and humbly, learn to measure the water of our sweet
potatoes and fight the evils of extinction.
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